Lama V4

[adarsh007]

I just love my Lama. an excellent indoor flier. Flying straight out of the Box

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p88/adarsh_007/E-Sky%20Lama%20V4/Image019.jpg

Regards,
Adarsh
www.adarsh007.com

[Rush7]

Nice.

[glydr]

It wasn't until I started throwing my lama V3 about that I was comfortable with nose in or FFF with any other heli.

Great start in helis.

[Skid_Slide]

I also started with a Coaxial. They work great on teaching you a few key steps in progressing. But it does fool you into a false sense of security. Single rotor heli's are much more "touchy". :rolleyes:

[cool disel]

i totaly agree whith u guys :) my first was Lama V3 and it really helped with the orientation ;)

[waterspout]

Sounds like you've all progressed to the touchy ones....
I'm a fixed wing instructor with 10 planes but new to whirlybirds.
I hover the V3 nose out and move around with pitch and roll (right stick) but couldn't do nose in or nose L/R for beans- always got twisted around and had to power down.
Then I started flying it like a fixed wing on rudder (Left stick Mode 2) and was able to get good quickly by flying "dragging 8's" where I was barely off of the ground, using left stick to steer. Very natural for a fixed wing pilot.
I recommend it highly for other early "converts".

Is this a bad approach? Am I jinxing my future in single rotor flying?

Havin' a ball, in 10 minute spurts!
Dave

[Steve_O]

I still enjoy my V4. It is much too hot here for me to go to the flying field today so i used up 2 batteries flying the V4 in the basement. Relaxing flying and still enjoying it after 2 years.

[T28Club]

Is it true that coaxials are too easy to fly and get boring quick?

[seuaniu]

Is it true that coaxials are too easy to fly and get boring quick?


"boring" depends on the person. It is true that they are limited in performance compared to a single rotor heli, so there is a ceiling that you'll hit, and then need to upgrade to something else. The tradeoff is that they are much easier to fly and hover, so the learning curve isn't all that steep. I'm on my first heli now (cx2) and after 15 or so flights, I'm starting to see why people buy bigger, better models. This is going to be an expensive habit.

[waterspout]

:confused: 72Mhz vs 2.4 Ghz Radio frequency aside, is the Lama V4 the same basic chassis as my CocoLama V3 from Esky?

[Chap1012]

:confused: 72Mhz vs 2.4 Ghz Radio frequency aside, is the Lama V4 the same basic chassis as my CocoLama V3 from Esky?

One thing for sure, the outer shaft for the V2/V3 is EK1-0316. For the V4 it is EK1-0557.

<edit> If it's the main frame your talking about...I think not.
V4--http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=38_235_265&products_id=3278
V2--http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=38_235_264&products_id=638

Only if the V2 is similar to the V3, I don't think it will work for you. Hope this helps.
Mike.

[waterspout]

Yep, this helps a lot, Mike!!! I am deciding between another V3 or a V4 and care about common spares. So I'll go v3 now.
Pretty hard to beat $69 at HobbyLobby for the works! I am so used to planes that the choppers will be short lived for now..... but my first V3 is up to 80 + flights. Havin a ball.

[Chap1012]

Is it true that coaxials are too easy to fly and get boring quick?
That's why I modded my V4 for outdoor flying. Hardly a bore. Try it you'll love it !!
Mike.

[waterspout]

Mike, what does the mod for outdoor flying entail?
I only go outdoors when its dead calm because it can't penetrate 5 knots of wind.
I also find that I tend to lose the dogbone link to the weights at high rotor speeds I hit when there's no "ceiling".

[Chap1012]

waterspout, This is what I have from helitek-rc: Supershaft 2.0, CF flybar (because I like it), Esky Lama metal head upgrade
http://www.helitek-rc.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=9

You can go to Boomtownhobbies for these: Longer servo horns (EFLRSA100-fine spline). You can also get the Model 4 Boom Kit for the CX2, Lama 4

This guys sells Xtreme canopies custom painted: http://www.djkhobby.com/ I just have a clear canopy as I like the look. The guy that sells the custom painted canopies is an RCG member and goes by the handle "stamp." Nice guy and nice work. Prices look good too. I think I paid about $15.00 for the clear canopy I have (Xtreme ESL-401).

Sum-Up: super shaft 2.0 - $6.99*
CF flybar - $10.99 (optional)
Esky metal head - $9.99*
Servo horns - $2.99*
Boom Kit - $21.99*
Xtreme Canopy (ESL-401) - Maybe "stamp" will sell you a clear one or you can go for broke on a custom job. OR you can always mod your stock canopy.
*= must have..
So, you could do this for around $40.00. You'll love the supershaft 2.0 There is a silicone spacer that can be pushed down for a nice fit...no washer spacers needed. I know a lot of guys that fly this shaft. They are becoming quite popular.

Are you talking about your flybar link (top part)? If you are, it sounds like it's way too loose. I had one of those but I kept it in case I need to use the bottom half of the link and/or threaded rod. Helitek-rc also sells adjustable flybar links.
Mike.

[waterspout]

Thanks, Mike! I may have to try some of this. So many mods, so little time.
As it came from the factory, my V3 is not out on the furthest hole of the servo yet. I was warned by someone that I shouldn't just move those links out to the next hole for more speed/wind penetration because the hardware can't handle such extreme yaw & pitch inputs without problems such as blades clacking together. You agree? It sounds as if the 2.0 shaft may be designed to avoid these problems.

I agree the flybar's dogbone is pretty loose to fly off. If it keeps happening I may figure a way to trap it with washers. First I have to note whether the dogbone is still on the flybar or the head after the next episode of "Oh, S____!"

[Chap1012]

Your V3 came stock with longer servo horns? My V4 came stock with just the one hole. After installing the longer servo horns, I set them on the 3rd hole. I separated the plastic stock swashplate during a bench test (lucky me). I since set them to the second hole on both sides. Right now I'm contemplating installing an Xtreme metal swash so that I can set the elevator rod out to the 3rd hole without worry of separation of swash on FFF. Yes the Supershaft 2.0 (which I reccomend from helitek-rc) works great as far as avoiding blade and flybar strike. I can pull some pretty decent tight turns out in the yard even with the push-rods set in the 2nd hole.

I tried making my flybar link a bit tighter to the flybar by putting a coat of clear nail polish on the flybar ball. No go !! In my case it was the flybar ball that was too loose/small. I used a different flybar and the link then fit very good. Try another flybar using the same link.
Mike.

[waterspout]

Yep, 4 holes on both, link connected to the first or "shorter throw" hole on both servos. But that's the V3.

[Chap1012]

Heck, your almost there then. All you need to do next is order a couple supershafts 2.0 (always a spare) and an esky lama metal head upgrade both at www.helitek-rc.com. Once you get those installed you can move the push-rod links out to the 2nd hole...re-level the swash and you'll be ready to take on light breezes in the yard. I tried flying in the yard when I thought it was calm with the stock set-up. It proved to be a disaster (and costly) 3 times.
Mike.
BTW, did you try another flybar with the same link?